tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39392436284000217132024-03-05T10:33:51.700-08:00floating white bearAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-29425360222479968602014-03-15T12:35:00.001-07:002014-03-15T12:35:28.990-07:00M2s complete! Victory Declared!Well, finally got around to getting some paint on the M2s. Base colour is Testor's Field Drab. Drybrushed a little dirt and dust, and added some black wash to the engine grates and exhaust.<br />
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Not too bad if I do say so myself!</div>
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Now back to some Civil War stuff....</div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-32015271634488986032014-02-01T13:38:00.000-08:002014-02-01T13:38:57.850-08:00Scratchbuilding a US M2 Medium Tank in 28mm Part 9 <div class="MsoNormal">
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<i><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></i><i><span style="color: red;">Picture 39 Construction Complete:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>And here are both tanks ready for paint. The project moved along very quickly. There was some delay as I figured out the track work and the mould making was slow. Keep in mind the flow here is not as it actually was. I was working on various aspects of the project at various times and was able to do one thing while the glue dried on another. </div>
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<span style="color: black;">I am sad to say I am pretty much stalled at this point however. Painting is not my favorite thing, especially that mid-point where it is not done and looks sloppy and incomplete I will finish off the paint and markings and show the results at a later date. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Also looks like I messed up on the flow of the sections of the build. I uploaded several parts and then posted as a group and I guess I should have posted individually to keep the flow. If you've followed along so far, I think you can sort it out. Hope you enjoyed it!<br />
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Regards, Rob. <o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-72687938149242989612014-01-13T07:42:00.000-08:002014-01-13T07:42:04.886-08:00Scratchbuilding a US M2 Medium Tank in 28mm Part 6<div class="MsoNormal">
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 29 Hull Details:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>While the track assemblies dried
(Don’t rush them—when in doubt give it overnight to dry.) I was adding details
to the hulls and turrets. Here plastic
strips add detail to the glacis, rear deck and machinegun turrets. Some thin
sheet forms the side and top crew compartment doors. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 30 Hull and Tracks:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Here a hull awaits
attachment of the suspension units. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 31 Tubes and Cylinders Two:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>But first some
more do-dads: the transmission covers and return wheel supports. Thicker plastic can be built up by laminating
thinner sheet. Thicker ends on tubes can
be sanded to create curve or domed tube-ends or caps.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 32 Suspension Details:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>A closer look
at building complex looking parts out of basic shapes and layers.</div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 33 Mounting the Tracks:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The tracks are
then mounted with a transmission bit at the front and return wheel support at
the back.<br />
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 34 Mantlet:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>A thick block of laminated plastic was
carved into the shape of the mantlet.
This was then pushed into a ball of green stuff. The original was pulled out before the green
stuff dried. Lower right is the plastic
original, and lower left the green stuff mould.
When cured, the interior of the green stuff mould was wetted down with
some water and ‘squashed onto a blob of fresh mixed green stuff. The two paint
jars each have a formed mantlet.
Originally a squash mould was planned for the bogies, but the technique
does not provide of a lot of detail. Latex
moulds are sufficient for the Alumilite.
RTV moulds would probably be a better quality option but are more
expensive.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 35 On Tracks:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The two tanks are shaping up nicely. The mantlets were trimmed, sanded and
installed. Some brass rod will be used
for the guns and machineguns. <o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-13498056654750085612014-01-13T07:41:00.001-08:002014-01-25T06:03:09.409-08:00Scratchbuilding a US M2 Medium Tank in 28mm Part8<div class="MsoNormal">
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 38 Adding a Tank Commander:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>As you have
seen the project evolved as it went along. About this point I had ordered some Old Glory
WW1 Americans for the force, and decided one of the vehicles needed a tank
commander. I made new hatch for the one
turret and began to cut open the door.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 38A Adding a Tank Commander:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The commander
will be this prone OG loader.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 38B Adding a Tank Commander:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The figure has
been cut in half and a brass wire support rod added. The hatchway to the turret has been trimmed and
a new hatch door added. A couple of
gizmos from the parts box dress it up. A
tube spacer has been added in the turret to support the figure. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 38C Adding a Tank Commander:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Some tools and
bits from the spare parts box and some green stuff add some stowage to the tops
of the tanks. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 38D Adding a Tank Commander:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The tank
commander had his rear-end re-built with green stuff and some belt work added. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-5947627114968919522014-01-13T07:39:00.002-08:002014-01-25T06:03:09.411-08:00Scratchbuilding a US M2 Medium Tank in 28mm Part 7<div class="MsoNormal">
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 36 Box of Details:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Here is a box of detail bits. The small squares are the hatches for around
the turret. A piece of thin plastic rod will be used for the hinges, and
slightly thicker rod for the hinges on the doors. The stepped tubes are layered Evergreen and
are for the exhaust, as are the curved sprue bits from an old plastic kit. Capped-tube domes will be used for the fuel
caps and headlamps.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 37 Adding Details:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Details added to the essentially
finished models. Brass paper clips
formed the bars over the headlamps. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 37A Adding Details:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Notice four machineguns
(plus the main and co-ax) on the front and three outback. I am not sure of the motion of the machine
gun turrets, but I suspect they would allow an overlap of the two machineguns
out each side. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I am also not sure who in the crew would operate each gun. I suspect the front guns were fixed, likely
fired by the driver and that it would not be possible to fire all the guns at
once. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 37B Adding Details:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Rear details include a
heavy thread tow cable and a tow hook from the spare-parts box. <o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-7176325631959244682014-01-13T07:29:00.000-08:002014-01-13T07:29:08.935-08:00Scratchbuilding a US M2 Medium Tank in 28mm Part 5<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 21 Starting Suspension:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>While the structures were being built, usually while the glue was drying, I gave some thought to the suspension.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Originally it was planned to phoney-up the running gear from some model tank parts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most of my stuff is 1/72 which is way too small for this project.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had nothing suitable, and thought about maybe squash moulding some components.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Again following the drawings, I used some Evergreen tube to plot out some bogies. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Evergreen tube is available in nesting sizes so thicker walled tubes can be built up. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here a driver on the right and a bogie assembly are set out on some scrap plastic card. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 22 Suspension Elements:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>A star shaped drive gear was cut from plastic sheet. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These are the parts for the bogies, return wheels and drivers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 23 Bogie Details:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>A block of thick plastic forms the mount and a thinner Evergreen tube makes the return roller.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 23A Bogie Details:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>Further details added. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bolt heads are Grandt Line or Tichy Train model railroad bits. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Note the green stuff to fill in the gaps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The spokes of the bogies will be filled in with green stuff and details added to the face plate and the swing arms with thin plastic rod. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 24 Alumilite Components:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>A series of latex moulds were then made and parts cast out of Alumilite. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The latex brushes on in many coats and is reinforced with cheesecloth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shown are castings of the bogie unit and a return wheel. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since twelve bogie units were required, two moulds were made of the bogie unit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A simplified drive gear was also made and moulded. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 25 Assembling Suspension:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>Support plates for the suspension were drawn out and drilled. The backs of the Alumilite castings were also drilled. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 25A Assembling Suspension:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>Since I wasn’t sure how well the castings would adhere to the plastic; the drilled holes were to act as rivets when epoxy glue was used to assemble the components. The back view of the suspension plates shows the epoxy “rivets”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 26 Suspension Left and Right:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>The assembled suspension sides cut apart.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Make sure you have left and right sides. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were a lot of air bubbles in the Alumilite parts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some filler and some terrain-mud will resolve any issues.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 27 Trackwork:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>The suspension plates were then trimmed to size and sanded for the curves. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The plates will also be trimmed to show track sag over the return rollers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 27A Trackwork:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>Evergreen strip plastic was formed over the track side plates.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The liquid solvent glue holds the strip to the side plate. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A bit of Crazy Glue bonded the track strip to the bogies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Liberal use of masking tape strips hold the strip in place until the glue dries. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 27B Trackwork:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>Inside view. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Note reinforcement strips top and bottom to hold the track strip in place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Spacer blocks will hold the track assembly to the lower hull.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_g9Zq76hxV8jaoEmIEiDWag4mEHQEW_wzJ9DnyBB7QCE_dUBZs3bx2IhMd0VV46rCmBojCpkCPS3uqzjHloTUsWbze5sRWhJbDbIyNKaQsca-j8s0PGjN2RF3o4uVfaJ8J8NECHTmhbL/s1600/27C+Trackwork.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_g9Zq76hxV8jaoEmIEiDWag4mEHQEW_wzJ9DnyBB7QCE_dUBZs3bx2IhMd0VV46rCmBojCpkCPS3uqzjHloTUsWbze5sRWhJbDbIyNKaQsca-j8s0PGjN2RF3o4uVfaJ8J8NECHTmhbL/s320/27C+Trackwork.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 27C Trackwork:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>Two assembled track units. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At this point I was looking at many, many hours gluing many, many small strips of plastic to create the track links.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Staring forlornly at my stock plastic box I came up with an alternative. (Remember that part about the only person you have to please is yourself and personal choices about how much work you want to do and how much detail you want to add?)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 28 Track Details:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>I had some formed plastic roof tiles that had a suitable “bump” for the track links. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-37398997563963132902014-01-06T08:06:00.002-08:002014-01-06T09:23:36.375-08:00Scratchbuilding a US M2 Medium Tank in 28mm Part 4<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtDWqFQRHfjwC5QsRxT6UBn6eVdUGGo8B-3-OhaXm9y1jHdk9K4woz1CDE5RREtcwgalUnurJSwfg40tG4BCrO4hrmbBlGtUkeXTiJ4Zw9mfv9IGADI-OjVpiH8ttFGFcbpn-Nwk6dESEs/s1600/15+Planning+Turrets.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtDWqFQRHfjwC5QsRxT6UBn6eVdUGGo8B-3-OhaXm9y1jHdk9K4woz1CDE5RREtcwgalUnurJSwfg40tG4BCrO4hrmbBlGtUkeXTiJ4Zw9mfv9IGADI-OjVpiH8ttFGFcbpn-Nwk6dESEs/s1600/15+Planning+Turrets.JPG" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 15 Planning Turrets:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The basic
octagonal box structure was repeated for two turrets. Note the top panel of the turret is sloped
down at the front so top and bottom of the turrets are not identical. This is structure, so thick plastic again.<o:p></o:p></div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-CA; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br clear="all" style="mso-special-character: line-break; page-break-before: always;" />
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 16 Assembling Turrets:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Assembling the
turrets. Note the spacer to establish
the height of the turret and that the front spacer slopes down to the front. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfkkNqS63JByaoKbfZBqKvRs5F2vU58O65lwNanjBRz2krids7YNMJsAI5yARjc-DX94ihMcpnKz3WMKA-E4vjGOebukFa1tanNJi2OwWr65FNYstYVGPqPnM8siYC7TaVP8g97srW9SjC/s1600/17+Plating+Turrets.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfkkNqS63JByaoKbfZBqKvRs5F2vU58O65lwNanjBRz2krids7YNMJsAI5yARjc-DX94ihMcpnKz3WMKA-E4vjGOebukFa1tanNJi2OwWr65FNYstYVGPqPnM8siYC7TaVP8g97srW9SjC/s1600/17+Plating+Turrets.JPG" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 17 Plating Turrets:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Thinner plastic card is
used to skin the turrets. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTHSa_pLy_DUkhfSumrRjORA1kkJgITPkbfbsGxwvHMWrnIoFWIIxKfze7p45mFd64pEYt15Bqu3yy1ZUfzRBN4RH5fYz-qSGZ2lg8rQuYaVTFFvR4dvQ8_5R2qlxAqm9Fj2FUT7JAza-a/s1600/18+Basic+Turrets.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTHSa_pLy_DUkhfSumrRjORA1kkJgITPkbfbsGxwvHMWrnIoFWIIxKfze7p45mFd64pEYt15Bqu3yy1ZUfzRBN4RH5fYz-qSGZ2lg8rQuYaVTFFvR4dvQ8_5R2qlxAqm9Fj2FUT7JAza-a/s1600/18+Basic+Turrets.JPG" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 18 Basic Turrets:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The basic turrets. A thicker plastic sheet will be used for the
front plate of the turret.</div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 19 Tubes and Cylinders:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>A second
structural element is round-section tubes. Four machine gun turrets are required on each
vehicle. Here, suitable diameter Evergreen
tube is capped with thin sheet. When
thoroughly dry, the cap can be trimmed and sanded to match the outside diameter
of the tube. The tube is cut to length
and the open end capped, trimmed and sanded. The capped tubes are then sliced vertically
into halves.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEGypc3LzcUoNE4lNRP3JNRrijqX4KoD81z-m8Fxx8Z8GYjIeZzEUljzWkj5ytXKIX_iEbjW7EDUlZNT0I0JDWBo0uCu5Olifcf0FW8rVhCB0YuPqMpN94eeMiLPHsIHm_Ombv1MgubrN/s1600/20+Taking+Shape.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEGypc3LzcUoNE4lNRP3JNRrijqX4KoD81z-m8Fxx8Z8GYjIeZzEUljzWkj5ytXKIX_iEbjW7EDUlZNT0I0JDWBo0uCu5Olifcf0FW8rVhCB0YuPqMpN94eeMiLPHsIHm_Ombv1MgubrN/s1600/20+Taking+Shape.JPG" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 20 Taking Shape:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The machine gun turrets are added to
the crew compartment. A plastic tube was
added to the turrets to form a pivot. Also
added was a disk to the bottom of the turret to allow it to turn freely. Some small similar thickness spacers were
later added to the bottom of the turrets to eliminate wobble. The upside down turret has a thick front plate
added and has yet to be trimmed. Note how
the hull’s base plate will form the front fenders and rides above the area the
tracks will run. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8AiGMDpT9-mcJIjA1TxJGbp7F9-xIYICL_r1EXq0kmxYRFjyiYqycsxIck8S6Chph1B1RFtzRtx0NEjl7RXcnSPLwvL72kkmWWQiggmrm1k4oNaYoSixSxS75uC2TbTPoKudFr69TGaqz/s1600/20A+Taking+Shape.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8AiGMDpT9-mcJIjA1TxJGbp7F9-xIYICL_r1EXq0kmxYRFjyiYqycsxIck8S6Chph1B1RFtzRtx0NEjl7RXcnSPLwvL72kkmWWQiggmrm1k4oNaYoSixSxS75uC2TbTPoKudFr69TGaqz/s1600/20A+Taking+Shape.JPG" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 20A Taking Shape:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Top and rear view of the basic
structures. At this point, other than
the tubes for the machine guns, there have been no curved structures. This complex shape is built up with layers of
flat sheet. <o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-25918802735944985792014-01-06T08:01:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:01:57.513-08:00Scratchbuilding a US M2 Medium Tank in 28mm Part 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJo_-f3UO15ZDJOLki_OSwi1PL6K6JeU7lMA6-UTJ3DfxbDb4L9yguz6jcC9GorbPgo0LXCxvN81N8WreUmrb_F_qmtXneP67s_dZn1QINFmrrP-e5QMnivfTPuaRMheNLDK6L1gymmlfT/s1600/8+Drivers+Compartment.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJo_-f3UO15ZDJOLki_OSwi1PL6K6JeU7lMA6-UTJ3DfxbDb4L9yguz6jcC9GorbPgo0LXCxvN81N8WreUmrb_F_qmtXneP67s_dZn1QINFmrrP-e5QMnivfTPuaRMheNLDK6L1gymmlfT/s1600/8+Drivers+Compartment.JPG" height="229" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 8 Drivers Compartment:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Here we start
fitting some of the skins for the driver’s compartment. The front section forms
a pyramid structure. Two sets of drawings I had did not match and one showed a
“cheater” plate to fill the driver’s compartment and the crew compartment.
Notice how the back of angular plate, the side plate of the driver’s
compartment, does not meet with the line on the crew compartment.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhLKUS3ViOexrf414lfXUu4e7wwk_W1jT4B2wb89HP8vwH8LuLvPcJi9iIZ9UChRjxnXynX2K8vJs2cy4R9iprsVBecKOcyk_ypIpfx7bwr0xXZlP9ClknncrNSNosG65iJvFJBMNL_xe/s1600/8A+Drivers+Compartment.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhLKUS3ViOexrf414lfXUu4e7wwk_W1jT4B2wb89HP8vwH8LuLvPcJi9iIZ9UChRjxnXynX2K8vJs2cy4R9iprsVBecKOcyk_ypIpfx7bwr0xXZlP9ClknncrNSNosG65iJvFJBMNL_xe/s1600/8A+Drivers+Compartment.JPG" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 8A Drivers Compartment:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>This becomes
more apparent when skinning in the upper sides of the driver’s compartment and
the purpose of the “cheater” plate becomes apparent. Note the gap between the upper and lower
plates of the driver’s compartment. The
lowest glacis plate is also installed and can be trimmed to size and edges
filed to shape.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf3HTjv5RlEgMsFccy6pqr44hSXG9-S4-ENLdq-yh0x-7S8LrMb95dhpwwYa2aqhyphenhyphenJqjAf8ayrnCQtMsrJKtIga6jdVbbkhLrvAiLhul3jWJGazSYMcrJyyraJAFXLj7GHpzEMsd64zIEj/s1600/9+Cheater+Plate.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf3HTjv5RlEgMsFccy6pqr44hSXG9-S4-ENLdq-yh0x-7S8LrMb95dhpwwYa2aqhyphenhyphenJqjAf8ayrnCQtMsrJKtIga6jdVbbkhLrvAiLhul3jWJGazSYMcrJyyraJAFXLj7GHpzEMsd64zIEj/s1600/9+Cheater+Plate.JPG" height="229" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 9 Cheater
Plate:</span></i><span style="color: red;">
</span>The “cheater” in blue, fills this area. This is not obvious in the drawings, but is
clearly visible on photos of the real vehicle.
The pyramid structure of the driver’s compartment is not true
pyramid. In this case, as the model
progresses, the model itself will direct how it is to be built. Note too that overlapping plates can be
installed on the inner edges, and the overlaps can later be trimmed to size.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 10 Lower Rear:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The lower rear, showing the floor
plate. Note the lower rear is actually two plates so the side plates and rear
base plate need to be trimmed.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 11 Trimming the Rear Deck:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Here a razor
saw aligned with the trimmed lower side plates will be used to bob the
vehicle’s rear end to the correct angle. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 12 Filling in Rear Deck:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The upper rear
decked in. Note the use of thick and
thin for structure and for sizing. You
sometimes have to recess one part to set in an additional panel or make a part
out of thicker stock to come up to the correct measurements. Generally structure is thicker than ‘skin’. The rears of the upper and lower sections are
now at the correct angle. The lower side
plates are yet to be trimmed to the correct angle for the lowest rear plate. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 13 Basic Hulls:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>The “basic” hulls.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 14 Basic Hulls:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Side and rear of two basic hulls.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="color: red;">Picture 14A Basic Hulls:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> </span>Here I took my Dremel to the floor and
up thru the base plate. I had planned to
add some weight to the models. This also
gave access to the interior structure if required later. Ultimately neither the weight nor the access
was used. <o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-23930383238306820142014-01-03T09:50:00.000-08:002014-01-03T09:50:00.311-08:00Scratchbuilding a US M2 Medium Tank in 28mm Part 2<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">For the M2 model the plane just above the tracks is a good starting point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I began with a rectangle of plastic the width of the model but longer than that required.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will build the tank’s upper works on top of this plate, and the lower works on the bottom of this plate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This plate forms the foundation of the model, so make it out of heavy stock, in this case, 40 thou sheet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA; mso-no-proof: yes;">Picture 1 Starting Point:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></i><span style="color: red; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA; mso-no-proof: yes;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-CA; mso-no-proof: yes;">Shows the base plate. It is probably as easy to build two models as to build one, so construction was started on two vehicles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also shown here is the upper deck. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-CA; mso-no-proof: yes;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The upper deck was scaled off the drawings and drawn out straight onto the plastic sheet. Since the turret will mount on this deck, it and the spacers supporting it, were cut from the heavier 40 thou sheet. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 1A Turret Deck:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></i>This shows the upper deck plate. Note the arrow and the correction in the upper right corner. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While the basic rule is measure twice, cut once, most things can be corrected as the project moves along. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 2 Assembly One:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>Shows a “front view” of the basic assembly. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I use Testors liquid Plastic Cement for the styrene parts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The forward part of the base plate is much longer than required; it will be trimmed in following steps. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 3 Plans on Materials:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>Since we have scale drawings, parts can be measured on the drawings and transferred to your stock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the left and right sides for the rear of the vehicles and since this is ‘skin’ and not structure, it is lighter 20 thou plastic card. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two vehicles: so two lefts and two rights, two ups and two downs, as the depth of the rear structure is not half way!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Keep your left/right and up down spacing correct. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Laying them out as a group ensures equal measurements. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Note the double line where a measurement was checked and corrected. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The trick then is to remember which line to cut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If a piece is miss cut, it is usually best to discard it and cut again, rather than fiddling to fix it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 4 Side Plates:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>Here we start to “skin” in the upper structure. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ‘octagonal’ crew compartment is skinned in and the side panels are mounted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Note the reinforcement bit on the upper right. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Try to get a tight corner along the edge of the base plate. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Notice too, the side plate sits on top of the base plate but the top plate is inside the side bit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Basically the purpose of the base plate is also to preserve the dimensions of the vehicle, providing a straight line from the front fenders to the side plates. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 5 Lower Hull:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>Here, side plates for the lower hull are sketched out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These side plates will support the tracks so they are also heavy stock.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 6 Lower Hull Two:</span></i><span style="color: red;"> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>The model itself forms part of your building plans. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The underside of the base plate is marked for a centre line and the position of the lower side plates.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A line across the vehicle marks the rear edge of the crew compartment and references measurements front to back. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: red;">Picture 7 Lower Hull Three:</span></i><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>This photo shows the lower hull plates assembled with a rectangular lower plate. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also installed is a lower glacis plate, and part of the “pyramid”. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Using a top view of the drawing the width of the pyramid plate at the upper glacis can be determined. The length of the angled plate can be taken from a side view of the vehicle. -At this point, you are into the world of ‘as-builts” if your model is not to the scale or size you want, it is probably best to start over before you do too much work. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Otherwise, use the model to determine the dimensions of the parts. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is as you built it. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The width of the front glacis is the width measured on the model.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What I have done here is trim the front portion of the base plate to leave the front fenders sticking out. I then trim the plate to allow the front glacis to assume its natural angle. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It will be very close to the drawing and it’s up to you how close you need it to be.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For me, this is close enough. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-8068001711463107032014-01-01T04:55:00.000-08:002014-01-01T04:55:15.416-08:00Scratchbuilding a US M2 Medium Tank in 28mm Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">One of my wargaming buddies is deeply involved in gaming the Very British Civil War in 28s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In order to participate I looked at potential foreign contingents.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I though possibly a US ‘Abraham Lincoln Brigade’ might be appropriate. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I began then to look into tanks for support and found some references to the M2 Medium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It literally bristles with machine guns and has very VBCW flavour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Built in 1939 it is just on the fringe of the time frame, but I felt it would be close enough.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Begin this (or any project) with some basic research.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A Google search for “M2 Medium Tank” or “M2 Medium Tank drawings” turns up a variety of photos and drawings. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two useful sites are:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M2_Medium_Tank"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M2_Medium_Tank</span></a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://ww2drawings.jexiste.fr/Files/1-Vehicles/Allies/1-USA/02-MediumTanks/M2/M2.htm"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">http://ww2drawings.jexiste.fr/Files/1-Vehicles/Allies/1-USA/02-MediumTanks/M2/M2.htm</span></a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I downloaded some three- views and some detail photos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Using the basic dimensions of the vehicle I was able to print out some scale plans. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Calculating to roughly 1/56 scale you may be able to use your home printer to print at a percentage reduction. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Alternately print out your drawings, measure and calculate a reduction or increase and have your local photo-copy store reduce or enlarge as needed. I usually print out a couple of sheets of the scale drawings to take measurements on and at times to cut up for full-size templates. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Some basic drafting skills may be required, but with the scaled drawing you can measure directly on the drawings to size up your stock. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(More as we continue.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I used 40 thou Evergreen white styrene sheet for strength in the support structure, and generally “skinned” with thinner 20 thou stock. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The 20 thou is thin enough you usually do not have to account for the thickness. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Using thicker stock will make a stronger model, but remember to compensate for the thickness of the materials in your measurements. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My basic tools are a steel rule and a snap blade hobby knife. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Evergreen styrene card is easily scored and snapped or can be trimmed with a sharp knife blade. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The steel rule provides a straight edge for cutting and is graduated down to 1/64<sup>th</sup> of an inch for measuring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can’t see or mark out a measurement smaller than 1/64 and for a wargames’ model that is sufficient tolerance. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You only have to make yourself happy so work to whatever tolerances you prefer, add details and be as accurate as you wish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The best advice I can give is to be patient, and let the glue dry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When in doubt let an assembly dry thoroughly overnight before you try to proceed to the next step. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I also did some Alumilite castings in latex moulds and some “squash” moulding for complex parts. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Any structure is can generally be thought of as a series of boxes of various shapes and angles, tubes, and some complex shapes. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The M2 is mostly flat plates and I will demonstrate some methods to build complex looking shapes out of easily obtainable materials. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The driver’s compartment is an interesting pyramid shape, which is rather confusing in the drawings, but since the real vehicle was built out of flat plates, progressing with a model will reveal what the drawings do not. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-15912036172938325572013-10-20T11:03:00.000-07:002013-10-20T11:03:12.416-07:00Fun with foamI started building up the works between the guns rather like the hills between the positions at Fort Fisher. Since I have three gun positiions, the left flank will have a hill attached and the right will have a small hill section that can be set next to one, two or three sections of the gun positions.<br />
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The transition between two sections is formed of two layers of the pink foam, and will be faced with card cut to an exact profile. This will allow the sections to be placed next to each other in random order with a smooth transition from one to the next. The foam here has been rough cut with a utility knife and hot glued in place. Once the hills have been "bulked-out" in foam I will take my hot-wire cutter to do the basic contours, followed by a 'surform' tool and some filler.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-2152512487215921732013-10-06T09:55:00.000-07:002013-10-07T05:11:39.826-07:00Progress on the guns!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVGHaZb9xZyhZ4wQsAuZYT6w8V8p3-AXQGF8wL3zaBha7YeBYpiQIjZOCeTeIWkprCsCyrW9GGbYiUDvSWKEeyIvJCDHVaslkrYFdLaLQ75d-V9obqGrME0-jKtGrk252XxPghkApMvcI6/s1600/Three+big+guns.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" closure_lm_169951="null" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVGHaZb9xZyhZ4wQsAuZYT6w8V8p3-AXQGF8wL3zaBha7YeBYpiQIjZOCeTeIWkprCsCyrW9GGbYiUDvSWKEeyIvJCDHVaslkrYFdLaLQ75d-V9obqGrME0-jKtGrk252XxPghkApMvcI6/s320/Three+big+guns.JPG" width="320" xsa="true" /></a></div>
Finally have some progress on the HBG gun carriages and gun positions. The barrels have been cast in Alumlite. See the previous post or my flickr page for the details of the mould. Not the best or highest tech mould making, but I got a couple guns out of it to use. The brown spots are Tichy Train Group rivets, drilled and glued into place. I have a little do-dad for each gun for the elevating mechanism.<br />
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When I was building the carriages I made a flat out of art board to set the various elevations of the platform. The pivot was the highest and there are two steps for the runners and the wheels. Here I began work on a gun position. There will be three gun platforms, with sand/turf hills between each rather like the land wall at Fort Fisher.<br />
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So lots of work to do yet!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-38801413871264449452013-06-11T07:01:00.002-07:002013-06-11T07:01:45.275-07:00Spanish Destroyer Furor in 1/600 scaleOne of my other goals has always been to do a naval game. I have finally settled (well, for now...) on the Spanish American War, using the lovely 1/600 Age of Ironclads from Old Glory.<br />
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<a href="http://www.oldglory25s.com/index.php?cat_id=786&catname=Age+of+Ironclads">http://www.oldglory25s.com/index.php?cat_id=786&catname=Age+of+Ironclads</a><br />
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Old Glory does most of the major ships, but at Santiago de Cuba in 1898, the Spanish had two large "torpedo boat destroyers": Furor and Pluton. A third similar boat,Terror, was not up to the Atlantic crossing but would be available for a 'what-if ' encounter. Furor and Terror were "Furor-class" and would be very similar. Pluton was apparently a newer "Audaz-class", but there seems to be some confusion as to the picture records of these ships. Google or Wikipedia the ships and you can find some side views, and I found some photos of a model of Furor. Since I was building in 1/600 scale the 220 foot boat comes out to just over four inches, so a 'general-arrangement' is good enough for my purposes. As always, feel free to research and include as much detail as you like. But at some point your are going to have to start cutting some plastic!<br />
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This photo shows the basic structures of the ship. Behind is a downloaded profile, scanned and set to scale. I can measure directly off the drawing onto my stock to build up the model. I started with a wooden plug carved to the basic hull shape. I then glued down a piece of Evergreen scribed stock for the decking and edged it with Evergreen strip for the sides. </div>
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Its not a big boat, just over four inches. The gun decks, cabins and stacks are bits of Evergreen detailed with scribed sheet and strip stock.</div>
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The torpedo tubes were a bit of suitable diameter sprue left over from a model kit. The ships boats were carved from laminated 60-thou sheet. A basic boat shape is easy to file out and I scalloped the topsides to similate tarps over the boats. The guns are bits of styrene rod. It appears the Furor did not have shields in front of the guns, but at this scale the little bit of plastic looks more gun-like with a small shield. The front gun here has a shield the back gun has yet to be completed. </div>
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Bay Area Yards makes ships boats and some guns in lead for its 1/600 ACW range. I have some of these but elected not to use them for this project.</div>
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<a href="http://bayareayards.virtualscratchbuilder.com/">http://bayareayards.virtualscratchbuilder.com/</a></div>
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I think this will be a fun period to game, and perhaps more importantly to build some model ships. In reality a decrepid Spanish fleet was hammered, virtually annihilated, by the superior American navy. On paper: if the Spanish could have mustered all their ships around Cuba; if the Spanish ships were outfitted like the specs said they were (some did not have their main guns fitted); if the Spanish navy was up to the task...</div>
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I am also not sure about the 1/600 scale. Santiago de Cuba was a fairly limited engagement close to shore, but at 1/600 it will still require a lot of space. The ships however are lovely and great models from Old Glory. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-32601920505746361432013-05-14T14:19:00.001-07:002013-05-14T14:38:30.681-07:00Fortress GunsI've hit the doldrums with the painting on the sling cart; first when deciding on colours; and then doing the actual painting. Artillery and wagons are kind of finicky to do the wood work and then all the add-on metal bits. I usually hit a a point where the lovely all-white styrene masterpiece is a mess of colour and sloppy details waiting to be cleaned up. I often have projects sitting for days with little progress. (To be honest projects usually sit for months or even years...)<br />
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So to fill in the time I finished up the 30-pounder Parrott gun. (Named for the inventor--Parrott--two T's. Not a gun to shoot tropical birds, with or from! As in Parrots--one T.) <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TxWkbkaGpcyn4b2R0pTLdCC-fHZ0K3EN338YWcPNPX4b4HYu5O2Y6wkEB6px_YxiiwCrxb-cIxAv7ko5fYcCMcQmDc40hi3Jfv2k3f8rLE3AmfdiGPQGX4fRn2Jt7j7hmSYpu4f3obU4/s1600/30+Pound+Parrott+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" pua="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TxWkbkaGpcyn4b2R0pTLdCC-fHZ0K3EN338YWcPNPX4b4HYu5O2Y6wkEB6px_YxiiwCrxb-cIxAv7ko5fYcCMcQmDc40hi3Jfv2k3f8rLE3AmfdiGPQGX4fRn2Jt7j7hmSYpu4f3obU4/s320/30+Pound+Parrott+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpq41MzFOxhdR_tOINoV0s9ZvU_GbM6Su-f27vm6BLJrCFssz3u_uaXXcdch1XJwfNZ3jNrqAb-x2S-izGoECRW2su2reDUzOWi2BX79VHKzy2SoSqfNw0ityDSD2VzRadQyyBfz92dtaY/s1600/30+Pound+Parrott+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" pua="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpq41MzFOxhdR_tOINoV0s9ZvU_GbM6Su-f27vm6BLJrCFssz3u_uaXXcdch1XJwfNZ3jNrqAb-x2S-izGoECRW2su2reDUzOWi2BX79VHKzy2SoSqfNw0ityDSD2VzRadQyyBfz92dtaY/s320/30+Pound+Parrott+3.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This gun is based on historical photographs and is scaled to match the Perry 24Lbr on a heavy carriage. </div>
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I've also started on some work for three "metal" fortress carriages. I'm thinking of a position similar to the two-gun emplacement at Fort Moultrie (Google is your friend!). These are based on a variety of similar guns still extant at various east coast Civil War forts. They are scaled for the "Less so HBG". And now as I look at the carriages in "the white" I may leave one empty to suggest a use for the HBG and the sling cart. I will either have to mould and cast some additional gun tubes or if I decide I only need one more, may look at scratch building a second barrel. (Maybe a really big Parrott?)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEiV7ycen65uFxmzQHk1R90Oxp8rvm9F1fBs3qPecKgYEQWZfnekfHYH0EwMCGuYnC6OkZ5HezlBTJqnblhsfRpJDFS3SIG2n0pPR1MtCbXEyUu_FukkABkhtHJYw2CVfwYvxqt11fkVjv/s1600/Fortress+Gun+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" pua="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEiV7ycen65uFxmzQHk1R90Oxp8rvm9F1fBs3qPecKgYEQWZfnekfHYH0EwMCGuYnC6OkZ5HezlBTJqnblhsfRpJDFS3SIG2n0pPR1MtCbXEyUu_FukkABkhtHJYw2CVfwYvxqt11fkVjv/s320/Fortress+Gun+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWmLgB3uAkPQN212OF-QUdufG84-BI4xMWd9NKiMxJ-oaWqGrKCsBxiyciJeDRCixxErSRlYOlzVTj5D0sJoKm3mKBoSILWGYs8h0FM4LjMJsA6ElhdjmwAR1YImcruNMvMyMJYzaaG5NW/s1600/Fortress+Gun+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" pua="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWmLgB3uAkPQN212OF-QUdufG84-BI4xMWd9NKiMxJ-oaWqGrKCsBxiyciJeDRCixxErSRlYOlzVTj5D0sJoKm3mKBoSILWGYs8h0FM4LjMJsA6ElhdjmwAR1YImcruNMvMyMJYzaaG5NW/s320/Fortress+Gun+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-11239441975610761782013-04-21T07:51:00.003-07:002013-04-21T07:51:58.933-07:00Sling Cart--Ready for Paint!Some detailing on the sling-cart with Historex parts, some brass wire loops, a fine chain and some thick tape for banding. Ready for paint and final assembly. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1-wft1DFs6m7WXRw1l2YRdIdMPYu1IKoCVc0OIzSZdVFA2xhbrF3gDjYZoDFehkOWkvob7YuSIEVwpfln2O0FBq9dPYkutlPijbESiDzyy3fcrozy5bJrYVkf1Bu07xWfUflDC8aGKVo/s1600/Ready+for+paint+rear+unit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dua="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1-wft1DFs6m7WXRw1l2YRdIdMPYu1IKoCVc0OIzSZdVFA2xhbrF3gDjYZoDFehkOWkvob7YuSIEVwpfln2O0FBq9dPYkutlPijbESiDzyy3fcrozy5bJrYVkf1Bu07xWfUflDC8aGKVo/s320/Ready+for+paint+rear+unit.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPrBzgujhLE-biGWFYSBC77lxUm54PpQQ0ZL09mczuSAOKqhqaSaqYaiBIQ3iBd6GyaetCxp_GIlr8xVe3s4ni-g77LqvTeQKjf4pQT4qQDvl0-jdOjjlOJGcms30RVT4gNLqmwXIt55eF/s1600/Ready+for+paint+front+unit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dua="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPrBzgujhLE-biGWFYSBC77lxUm54PpQQ0ZL09mczuSAOKqhqaSaqYaiBIQ3iBd6GyaetCxp_GIlr8xVe3s4ni-g77LqvTeQKjf4pQT4qQDvl0-jdOjjlOJGcms30RVT4gNLqmwXIt55eF/s320/Ready+for+paint+front+unit.JPG" width="320" /></a><img border="0" dua="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOHddY04JOga3leHN4uGRxgjvMHLfzbALCQMx02-KztnbI0CXTZi989nlGbp0fv1C4LnyrCatZ8Zy6fMj3ZrjvQ-NUBLsVgOxWrb9tatBI3vBsrH00Cc34qT_7jiCDNFoVhHD7Cl1svP9X/s320/Ready+for+paint.JPG" width="320" /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGfKVjZnWTaXYwxHL6GZO8xiSpSLlchMBahJTXuKjcqdZkKla-Bn1sh8j7LjWBMfthVG7lbB6_jI48lx697J7VMlVG2N5zWxwSaiLg5W9smlGQ40IRmL0KB_P9yrSKJao5aKMHlfLZmFc/s1600/Columbiad+with+chains.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dua="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGfKVjZnWTaXYwxHL6GZO8xiSpSLlchMBahJTXuKjcqdZkKla-Bn1sh8j7LjWBMfthVG7lbB6_jI48lx697J7VMlVG2N5zWxwSaiLg5W9smlGQ40IRmL0KB_P9yrSKJao5aKMHlfLZmFc/s320/Columbiad+with+chains.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_0AImCP28gYMWgN87Oe8PC5oG0if7dwxyb3MsBTrympIOxuw2TbW8dKk7oD_LLvODgd-h2kMfe_Jo3e-ZUMAf6Dq9P7Z1F6GMZ1FYl00VJbBxtdwQx0XFM-TdTpPA6SDRD9f79knw1us9/s1600/General+assembly+before+paint.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dua="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_0AImCP28gYMWgN87Oe8PC5oG0if7dwxyb3MsBTrympIOxuw2TbW8dKk7oD_LLvODgd-h2kMfe_Jo3e-ZUMAf6Dq9P7Z1F6GMZ1FYl00VJbBxtdwQx0XFM-TdTpPA6SDRD9f79knw1us9/s320/General+assembly+before+paint.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-5873783292555216602013-04-08T11:48:00.000-07:002013-04-08T11:48:17.927-07:00Quick update: The Sling CartHere are a couple details of the sling cart. I cut up the Historex kit to make the parts of the sling cart and will use more parts to dress it up. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrF20kZqxtcyYgK-P-jcARF9QBdsTKW-VVhqW8TPOVHiz7T58M_OUhCXNlie1K0cEYoiiFlbXxb2joITdPvA4-4u5bo-v6WQWsYSEOdHsjbaInDa91NsPidR4wWqqdfJBT825GkH-4El2s/s1600/General+layout.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrF20kZqxtcyYgK-P-jcARF9QBdsTKW-VVhqW8TPOVHiz7T58M_OUhCXNlie1K0cEYoiiFlbXxb2joITdPvA4-4u5bo-v6WQWsYSEOdHsjbaInDa91NsPidR4wWqqdfJBT825GkH-4El2s/s320/General+layout.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiggLC3L5bnW5LscO-Y40ZnfFH_C1RmbsPz3wUf1m74O7kYznOY5mX0Em1pfCdrfCKqaIUEB-BoDS9tdiN0HVboYzooPCJoRQzCZWmF2Fnt4nLwzJvMi0f6hbPut1AFpuHEM_eYObxQllR6/s1600/Detail+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiggLC3L5bnW5LscO-Y40ZnfFH_C1RmbsPz3wUf1m74O7kYznOY5mX0Em1pfCdrfCKqaIUEB-BoDS9tdiN0HVboYzooPCJoRQzCZWmF2Fnt4nLwzJvMi0f6hbPut1AFpuHEM_eYObxQllR6/s320/Detail+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYtZRmImObFACEOD4-mlD8QyRRDUY6SMulkwkvBGbveTzDh6SoyJCCNg8ZGhYMVEn_vQhZCj2WBd7M5hLpK9z0NesyZeDM4Wz2TlKZpadlpB9-jvRz4yHsxDpMSWF-0LQG5WsOU80EIrQL/s1600/Detail+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYtZRmImObFACEOD4-mlD8QyRRDUY6SMulkwkvBGbveTzDh6SoyJCCNg8ZGhYMVEn_vQhZCj2WBd7M5hLpK9z0NesyZeDM4Wz2TlKZpadlpB9-jvRz4yHsxDpMSWF-0LQG5WsOU80EIrQL/s320/Detail+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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On the odd chance you have not come from one of the two following sites, if you have an interest in gaming or military miniatures you really need to check out:</div>
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<a href="http://www.lead-adventure.de/">http://www.lead-adventure.de/</a> </div>
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and </div>
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<a href="http://theminiaturespage.com/">http://theminiaturespage.com/</a></div>
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I also have a Napoleonic siege gun and limber, and for now I will be using this limber to match up with the sling cart. The gun and limber is scratchbuilt from Evergreen plastics, a wooden dowell and some brass wire. The horses were done in green stuff using a ground down Essex horse as a dolly. I had a few of these cast for my own use and they also feature on my Union pontoon wagons.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrybWJCklB4nFyS0KCWkplv4IXRbzJa_S3CqMbtGyli7k3Pp43zSbFRjRHmw2CuypFWu8FUpo0NL04TWFy_rdGAexz-iyHCZVZgBu9skKoP_5z-6m0UZpfn9SKKSZ6HjUO5WXE5qFLp5k/s1600/Napoleonic+Gun.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrybWJCklB4nFyS0KCWkplv4IXRbzJa_S3CqMbtGyli7k3Pp43zSbFRjRHmw2CuypFWu8FUpo0NL04TWFy_rdGAexz-iyHCZVZgBu9skKoP_5z-6m0UZpfn9SKKSZ6HjUO5WXE5qFLp5k/s320/Napoleonic+Gun.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaVa_NEgGrsoWQt83SJjk-X2MaCam93UXscBgRY1mRv1p3Jdjyz6hqI3EVCBkcXg7kh-eq83O76i4Tu_F0tWhuo_kWpMQ-naPLy5mnUnnJ8V5IgLJJZ_8pXXgoXjjNvCQc1Mhvt2BBAhgK/s1600/Horsies.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="231" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaVa_NEgGrsoWQt83SJjk-X2MaCam93UXscBgRY1mRv1p3Jdjyz6hqI3EVCBkcXg7kh-eq83O76i4Tu_F0tWhuo_kWpMQ-naPLy5mnUnnJ8V5IgLJJZ_8pXXgoXjjNvCQc1Mhvt2BBAhgK/s320/Horsies.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUg1QavOTr1rbTZTfd6F7clUX3DCVHBbRcMbuk_4jLjqCMTZWocG8RQ4crhiFfY3S-WWRSUoRN5rspxCRxQDf_fqCOSjUCaVLR9iqVsiuKxgPe7gL7lS-x3brxFiNIZ386AyeYf_q3eHx/s1600/Trial+fit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUg1QavOTr1rbTZTfd6F7clUX3DCVHBbRcMbuk_4jLjqCMTZWocG8RQ4crhiFfY3S-WWRSUoRN5rspxCRxQDf_fqCOSjUCaVLR9iqVsiuKxgPe7gL7lS-x3brxFiNIZ386AyeYf_q3eHx/s320/Trial+fit.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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...and my old friend the Redoubt 28mm VMI cadet is shown for scale. </div>
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<a href="http://www.redoubtenterprises.com/">http://www.redoubtenterprises.com/</a></div>
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Check out the ACW, Extras, Regiment packs. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-38074863686529455932013-04-03T08:24:00.001-07:002013-04-03T08:24:53.011-07:00Sling Cart Part 2Well, I'm cheating. I was looking through my big box of plastic bits and came across some Russian kits of 54mm artillery. There were a couple of nice big wheels that would be perfect for the sling cart. There are several internet images of various sling carts, so I think there would have been a variety of wheel types, such as:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQdPCU9bV8DeLCF2tkZjkjZcdi3t5gbpQRCfTdaTYM2y20vSFgCS4uVl060baCxHiqqSjXuUcXcfcknAaQHgMCzPVcJLo8iSZwL-ht0eKCsQJ8wMQXyyf89tPq5i0mqnZDiYHdQ7iWsreO/s1600/civil-war-sling-cart-granger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="254" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQdPCU9bV8DeLCF2tkZjkjZcdi3t5gbpQRCfTdaTYM2y20vSFgCS4uVl060baCxHiqqSjXuUcXcfcknAaQHgMCzPVcJLo8iSZwL-ht0eKCsQJ8wMQXyyf89tPq5i0mqnZDiYHdQ7iWsreO/s320/civil-war-sling-cart-granger.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I also recalled I had an old Historex kit of a Gribeauval caisson. This had three larger wheels that were more suitable. Since I wanted four similar size wheels, I would need to scratch build one more and add the reinforcing spokes to two of the wheels. Here is the basic Historex wheel with a Perry 24lbr and a redoubt VMI cadet for size:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL17KRIPJcHS43rLUoRVzEaG8D0MuUA6OP2o8mdyL_8ody_eQI4NN4TngNkSlYdcyJgamSogO3qgKp7c8pXD8WaKIOjHsBWD0T0Ojt_7VEJtip8nvGkqpE9HiYB_bf4yXaZb8eABEHIEY_/s1600/Historex+wheel.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL17KRIPJcHS43rLUoRVzEaG8D0MuUA6OP2o8mdyL_8ody_eQI4NN4TngNkSlYdcyJgamSogO3qgKp7c8pXD8WaKIOjHsBWD0T0Ojt_7VEJtip8nvGkqpE9HiYB_bf4yXaZb8eABEHIEY_/s320/Historex+wheel.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here are the two wheels modified to add an extra spoke in every other pair of original spokes. These will be the wheels for the front half of the sling cart:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGPCnOCIyjexwPmUqj1V6VcFai-7dijRZSFyc8K-F1iDeRf7-nyfULsSYB89skctMk8PH_6OLdkPjlSha4tZp9MN546KyqZgUIBiQz8WNRWwl-hB1Ykrzb2nFBBGo729uE4LAu0vE_q_w6/s1600/Sling+Cart+Wheels.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGPCnOCIyjexwPmUqj1V6VcFai-7dijRZSFyc8K-F1iDeRf7-nyfULsSYB89skctMk8PH_6OLdkPjlSha4tZp9MN546KyqZgUIBiQz8WNRWwl-hB1Ykrzb2nFBBGo729uE4LAu0vE_q_w6/s320/Sling+Cart+Wheels.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And showing the wheels and the HBG the sling cart will be carrying:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmX64NwLyKZD5BJMZP6CMbju9B0hHsbfGsvlSF5eoyShTOemp8CjMKjVYJXoVONwsgIdx_EWWWu2lfCkDnbSlPXkkDoRcWQzl2GG_qOQ1jWIE4_7J1A3CfGfHnA9wB7x7AqS0iSSZ_8kcX/s1600/Sling+cart+wheel+size.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmX64NwLyKZD5BJMZP6CMbju9B0hHsbfGsvlSF5eoyShTOemp8CjMKjVYJXoVONwsgIdx_EWWWu2lfCkDnbSlPXkkDoRcWQzl2GG_qOQ1jWIE4_7J1A3CfGfHnA9wB7x7AqS0iSSZ_8kcX/s320/Sling+cart+wheel+size.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And an unfair question: These are the back wheels and one was scratch built. Which One?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhseMe63rnctogdhDtT0TrWH5MRMPqQTjn8dG6Wd3y5rLI_AtbpAAMUaiM8OlydbYFmCEqejEl-VjLMvseQUPL9Uw8OMpoyWLSJ1a0K56y_qFvAvzK2JSMFyVvCca53dGKLjXy8yszUpP-t/s1600/which+one.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhseMe63rnctogdhDtT0TrWH5MRMPqQTjn8dG6Wd3y5rLI_AtbpAAMUaiM8OlydbYFmCEqejEl-VjLMvseQUPL9Uw8OMpoyWLSJ1a0K56y_qFvAvzK2JSMFyVvCca53dGKLjXy8yszUpP-t/s320/which+one.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Hard to tell with a low-res internet picture, but the left was scratchbuilt. I think it will pass with a bit of paint!</div>
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Also progressing on the big Rodman. I will use this gun for the sling cart and am planning a slightly smaller one for a sea-coast position. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-56864306352332242013-03-25T16:40:00.000-07:002013-03-25T16:40:11.136-07:00Some ships...I started building some 15mm ironclads to a roughly 1/120 scale. At one inch equals 10 feet, this makes them just a little small for 15mm but large enough and realistic enough to pass. I did not want to make ships that were cartoonish. So a 200 foot monitor style ship is 20 inches. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSqE3r-qEP2V4SOlrhmstF5o2KNtT6f8Jg8rs1-bMRUrXz6OX7QfCOXw4HaXQbCstPPhkhHYOyXX50TKoWVRQrd6ffmuWecGZPOHZVb2QqnaxUtUH-zxvzxvg3aWefk0SuUvvIa6PtpFh0/s1600/DSCF0012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSqE3r-qEP2V4SOlrhmstF5o2KNtT6f8Jg8rs1-bMRUrXz6OX7QfCOXw4HaXQbCstPPhkhHYOyXX50TKoWVRQrd6ffmuWecGZPOHZVb2QqnaxUtUH-zxvzxvg3aWefk0SuUvvIa6PtpFh0/s320/DSCF0012.JPG" ssa="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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The 'hull' is a sheet of 1/4 inch bass wood. sheathed in Evergreen scribed sheet. The deck was carved into alternating plates--actually engraved as I used my Dremel and a small grinding bit. The turret was formed from card board rings and a band and sheathed in 20 though plastic sheet. Rivets are Grandt Line or Tichy Train Group model railroad rivets, drilled and placed by hand. The stack is an Evergreen tube.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6xqtuvorKTvu11hoMmXeglUzEEhy6_hLzRvE2xbrfGLUqZVG8K2vuXFr3ZYB7FOmwd_N9lfJGi6eR72LKMALksdHUzX7CwB6W9lUdngMQnuzDStjQMc2MlB1sOYZ4W1nK0v2tcZ0a4ZGu/s1600/DSCF0011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6xqtuvorKTvu11hoMmXeglUzEEhy6_hLzRvE2xbrfGLUqZVG8K2vuXFr3ZYB7FOmwd_N9lfJGi6eR72LKMALksdHUzX7CwB6W9lUdngMQnuzDStjQMc2MlB1sOYZ4W1nK0v2tcZ0a4ZGu/s320/DSCF0011.JPG" ssa="true" width="320" /></a></div>
The steel ruler in the background is 15 inches. The wire cage above the turret is brass, built separate from the turret on a jig, and held in place to be soldered. It was then attached to the top of the turret with small bits of Evergreen tube to form feet and hold it in place. A future project maybe to vacuum form an awning for the top of the turret. This ship will be USS Montauk, a Passaic class monitor. Passaics had one 15 inch and one 11 inch gun. Conning tower is the cupola on top of the turret.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnimg67BU7iUClyUJjGdlMgwkvuVcInLt_AB-MxUEbUfNpZgt_YOevFoUGmBdq2P8XrI-wsD310dvO68BKhiEM497IzbPHywzcB7orjLXDB1uhaTDpMS-QhCFSOnFjOreT3PhRY5yXaNEk/s1600/CSSArkansas1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnimg67BU7iUClyUJjGdlMgwkvuVcInLt_AB-MxUEbUfNpZgt_YOevFoUGmBdq2P8XrI-wsD310dvO68BKhiEM497IzbPHywzcB7orjLXDB1uhaTDpMS-QhCFSOnFjOreT3PhRY5yXaNEk/s320/CSSArkansas1.JPG" ssa="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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CSS Arkansas. Similar construction, but casement is a styrene box from scribed sheet. Boat davits are brass wire. 10 guns of various calibre were carried. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrGioJdMMWp3tJ4k2Hveqrif6F1B8BLrAmQLoSIC2nEUmQPrPHQY_TTrizUsu6mDYHNCWuw_bvY80K3NgbgDc030MGIWUeIWiKW-6XmRqeq0MKwwsn9qbFBD1MZRI0BVaQ_W3_R-2bR1nb/s1600/CSSArkansas2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrGioJdMMWp3tJ4k2Hveqrif6F1B8BLrAmQLoSIC2nEUmQPrPHQY_TTrizUsu6mDYHNCWuw_bvY80K3NgbgDc030MGIWUeIWiKW-6XmRqeq0MKwwsn9qbFBD1MZRI0BVaQ_W3_R-2bR1nb/s320/CSSArkansas2.JPG" ssa="true" width="320" /></a></div>
Stern view of Arkansas. Only base colour so far. She may have been muddy brown in colour to match the muddy river. I have some small plastic ship's boats, and will sling two here and Montauk will have one on the back deck. CSS Arkansas was based on web images as no actual photos exist. Some reconstructions show it with verticle sides. I liked the boat-like stern and the angled sides make more sense to me. (Wargaming is after all history not as it was but as it should have been!)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEY2SlY3nfUa06oQ1xi1z3c8rF0BAsBNAB1DYrvtuSEZDDuXXOOeq-Nchfm1O-_Xd2MmRJLs8THdGk3-RbPvXJM8H3EvD9iqZ54Y7ybsmqHCoVkwMD8ZBGz77_MQn7iYOg5i9MsqJyQatP/s1600/USSShamrock2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEY2SlY3nfUa06oQ1xi1z3c8rF0BAsBNAB1DYrvtuSEZDDuXXOOeq-Nchfm1O-_Xd2MmRJLs8THdGk3-RbPvXJM8H3EvD9iqZ54Y7ybsmqHCoVkwMD8ZBGz77_MQn7iYOg5i9MsqJyQatP/s320/USSShamrock2.JPG" ssa="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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USS Shamrock is a union "double ender". The boat had a large gun fore and aft, paddle-wheels amidship and a bridge and rudders on each end. It was literally double-ended and could travel either direction with ease. Some models show what looks to be furled sails on the masts. I don't believe these boats were intended to be sailed. Some images do show some sort of canvas on the masts. I believe these were canvas duct work that was used to vent fresh air downward to the below-deck spaces.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqbfpr1tHuXCjcAjYC2JwK8Tgn6M1LkNHa2_wKUYULDZQ7bXSNlUPq1LmEJYBmWxG_VwjUODc5r1J8qvEZPKQKq8of39TBPM0Tv9uKeYDPDRosNKETBfiGh62vKefSUfQkArquQvRgZu-Z/s1600/USSShamrock1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqbfpr1tHuXCjcAjYC2JwK8Tgn6M1LkNHa2_wKUYULDZQ7bXSNlUPq1LmEJYBmWxG_VwjUODc5r1J8qvEZPKQKq8of39TBPM0Tv9uKeYDPDRosNKETBfiGh62vKefSUfQkArquQvRgZu-Z/s320/USSShamrock1.JPG" ssa="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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Each end of the double ender had an 11 inch gun. The circular rails were used to shift the gun from side to side and to pivot the gun when firing out the side ports. I don't believe the guns could shoot directly fore and aft. The gun would pivot on the front point of the carriage and ride on the semi circle rail. To change to the opposite side, the front pin was unlocked and a rear pin was set (at the intersection of the semi-circular tracks. The gun would then swivel around the full circle, to be locked on the opposite side. Several smaller deck guns were carried. Four life boats were also mounted two each side just fore and aft of the paddle-wheels. (Or fore and fore or aft and aft as there really was no fore and aft!) </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-2186141388943183002013-03-18T10:48:00.001-07:002013-03-18T10:48:29.864-07:00Ships vs Shore Part 1One of my ongoing projects has been a 15mm ACW ships vs shore project. I have been lucky enough to visit several ACW forts along the south east United States coast, and I have been collecting 15mm figures and lots of big guns! I am not sure where this project is heading, but I plan on eventually doing a very large game, perhaps on a gymnasium floor. <br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">This is a large rifle at Fort Fisher in North Carolina. Described as a 6 3/8 inch rifle (Old 32) it forms part of Sheperd's Battery and faces the landward approach to the fort. Presumably the hill on the right of the gun would protect the position from fire from ships off shore. This view would be directly towards the ocean. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I started a sand fort project designed to depict a large sand mound and gun positions. The basis is green florist's foam, and as this pre-dates my hot-wire cutter, it was glued down with hot glue in various layers and carved to shape with a knife and "Surform" tool.</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4PL22E36Y8fZlq6VLpBoo7hqQaOYjme2L6EmLBbcc9fTXzL4mfQjD3yuV3MoCsb6QZbLnumtjHoOsIKcX0R4hPnFehT3NDbpbAl19fo_-5KmsuoyTHV6B-G-0n7ZL5uHu8pS3Dy_cW77R/s1600/Sand+Fort+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4PL22E36Y8fZlq6VLpBoo7hqQaOYjme2L6EmLBbcc9fTXzL4mfQjD3yuV3MoCsb6QZbLnumtjHoOsIKcX0R4hPnFehT3NDbpbAl19fo_-5KmsuoyTHV6B-G-0n7ZL5uHu8pS3Dy_cW77R/s320/Sand+Fort+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Two views of the cardboard and foam sand fort. The ruler is 15 inches, and the highest gun position was about 3 1/2 inches. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I planned to use my dyed wood technique to stain strips of balsa to line the roadways and create a palisade around an upper and lower gun position. The size was determined by creating a reasonable slope for the ramps up to the guns. An internet check of sand forts (Google is your friend!) shows some were very steep. Presumably they would have to haul very heavy guns up very steep inclines.</span> <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqHtaYqk4VFUYKiHvfuwAZR2ktu-On5vqK7KyQ6quWzsUUcsQvr52sNyWGod06bNIdTRKIYagjKqk-YFnCOwMX1wLsxlS7Arb0LePgDTU_VOBUofNVdzZO9bzp8Qo6Hzgy-3TV7DCZXap2/s1600/Sand+Texture+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqHtaYqk4VFUYKiHvfuwAZR2ktu-On5vqK7KyQ6quWzsUUcsQvr52sNyWGod06bNIdTRKIYagjKqk-YFnCOwMX1wLsxlS7Arb0LePgDTU_VOBUofNVdzZO9bzp8Qo6Hzgy-3TV7DCZXap2/s320/Sand+Texture+1.JPG" width="229" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-B93Cwk3IwvGl5LfZ_5ieLwCiuhylKiUdOSmopZLdb_y4PVZuYYlV2PW43Rhsqub8B6Zu79WUDhRL-0kXqx-h4_fhOMzXL7SwdNzCxNFJw-a_DjdBXXt43qaNEFwV-pCvC2zfCkkhBaAk/s1600/Sand+Texture+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-B93Cwk3IwvGl5LfZ_5ieLwCiuhylKiUdOSmopZLdb_y4PVZuYYlV2PW43Rhsqub8B6Zu79WUDhRL-0kXqx-h4_fhOMzXL7SwdNzCxNFJw-a_DjdBXXt43qaNEFwV-pCvC2zfCkkhBaAk/s320/Sand+Texture+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The final two views show a couple coats of the sand texture paint as used for the brick texture on my Salem Church model. In this case the sand could probably used as its natural colour. It was planned to have a palisade around the base of the central mound. At this point hoverver I just wasn't enamoured with it. The model did not survive our recent move. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I suspect there will be a project in the not too distant future to revisit the sand fort. I am also toying with ideas for a masonry fort. Maybe something modular? Somewhere in the boxes I have a modular Vauban type fort for 25mm games. It is decidely not Civil War-ish, and is fodder for future blogs. Next time, a look at a couple 15mm ACW ships. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">More on <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/floating_white_bear/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/floating_white_bear/</a> </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ5cZ8MyhNQDKLUjQMixHyB54elUfxM8ay878GuonS4UfXHiHUqOza8gB3yUy8wJAXQUp-t5O4yDZ7AAI60btHULgUzKzYiDcCS7vRu4iWl1STIzLhP6cPTiVf863uGqxrxvoGs1d9J2t7/s1600/Fort+Clinch+Rodmans.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ5cZ8MyhNQDKLUjQMixHyB54elUfxM8ay878GuonS4UfXHiHUqOza8gB3yUy8wJAXQUp-t5O4yDZ7AAI60btHULgUzKzYiDcCS7vRu4iWl1STIzLhP6cPTiVf863uGqxrxvoGs1d9J2t7/s320/Fort+Clinch+Rodmans.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Rodman 10 inch guns look out over the St Mary's River at Florida's Fort Clinch. There is a fascinating history at this very well preserved fort, but its ownership was never contested by fire. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Pulaski however took the full brunt of the Union rifled artillery:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQuGq7IButAoh2vSrnJeM1yypzIKSc_gj2IW09C4RSIPufAPWeOKAYo1s55xq0hHpBpR2vCNs0Lw7xDwE6hqp9EHghfAenKX2mfZHXC7JEG2uK2LvrAqw5-5cwVdhRtQh2Wk8EQc_oF3v4/s1600/Damage+at+Fort+Pulaski.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQuGq7IButAoh2vSrnJeM1yypzIKSc_gj2IW09C4RSIPufAPWeOKAYo1s55xq0hHpBpR2vCNs0Lw7xDwE6hqp9EHghfAenKX2mfZHXC7JEG2uK2LvrAqw5-5cwVdhRtQh2Wk8EQc_oF3v4/s320/Damage+at+Fort+Pulaski.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">Fort Pulaski, near Savannah in Georgia. Plenty of model building potential here!</span>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-22501147374412847882013-03-11T08:22:00.003-07:002013-03-11T08:22:53.175-07:00Salem Church in 28mm<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
Our group briefly discussed a Salem Church scenario, and we checked our various collections for a suitable church. Since nobody had one, I decided to cobble one up...quickly...<br />
Luckily there is a great resource for actual plans of the church via the Library of Congress:<br />
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<a href="http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/va0935/" target="_blank"><span style="color: black;">http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/va0935/</span></a><br />
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I started off with approximate dimensions and built a 'semi-scale' model. If I had wanted a more detailed model, and wanted to spend a bit more, I would have used brick-textured plastic. This model is in what I know as show-card, which is matte board or art board--smooth surface cardboard about 1/16 of an inch thick. Details are balsa. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib3ZayWdH5A4IKql7cBwmJYplOB7k8u7siVzeELs9UQs9yaLwv5TNhXMCYN7I6Fi1fIz-XLi6SHNXJUxJihQtYYimm-pxcMDHGJl-Q5klDqgq9fKP-Fs1PYrNvqHXnkkdR5ug6DrsLjluc/s1600/Salem+Church.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib3ZayWdH5A4IKql7cBwmJYplOB7k8u7siVzeELs9UQs9yaLwv5TNhXMCYN7I6Fi1fIz-XLi6SHNXJUxJihQtYYimm-pxcMDHGJl-Q5klDqgq9fKP-Fs1PYrNvqHXnkkdR5ug6DrsLjluc/s320/Salem+Church.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Since I was not using any brick textured material, I placed some thin card "brick" randomly about the surface to be highlighed when painted. The rest of the brick areas got two coats of stone texture paint. I believe this came from the Michael's chain of craft stores in North America. There is a variety of particles in the paint which give a pleasingly even textured surface. Colour choice is limited, and the light colour I am using is not very opaque. You could put a base colour down if you are not intending to paint the surface after the texturing. There are a couple of other shades of this available. </div>
There used to be an alternate brand of this type of paint that had some very nice brick and stone colours. This other type had a variety of particulate and was very nice as a final coat. It sadly is no longer available. (Too bad as I would like to add some bits to my fortress and would like to match the colour!) <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFVGtJuxFWnMD3XuPWn55cT_YQV2Vmifov_hO5eMKVLMIL3t4tkrtV4JcuuMgjYjS6TII0rsLFg_dIDS9wnh3Alph2u3Hp5B1UVohBlsxsW5_YomBQO1clljsju90m-R7ySbt0SnHkSWRl/s1600/Salem+Church+Stone+Texture.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFVGtJuxFWnMD3XuPWn55cT_YQV2Vmifov_hO5eMKVLMIL3t4tkrtV4JcuuMgjYjS6TII0rsLFg_dIDS9wnh3Alph2u3Hp5B1UVohBlsxsW5_YomBQO1clljsju90m-R7ySbt0SnHkSWRl/s320/Salem+Church+Stone+Texture.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The next photo shows the window frames painted and the shutters assembled. The shutters and the upper vent on the door-wall were made by gluing strips of thin balsa in a wide staircase formation. This was then cut into strips and framed up with more balsa strips. Tedious, but fairly effective. (You can choose to work neater and more precisely than I did!)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG-D0KYj3PzaAqYI7cg6vP25bYF26u0Wu4hVDy7otQbdNGj-vffRv677P4rSXQW6LOjgFmVG138Vby3BCMnj3ZTmJnaiKtINFqH2YPgw6O1iH3QDmyTeVP7KGBnIvcvxiwXPp1NLEtiQl7/s1600/Salem+Church+Paint+and+Shutters.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG-D0KYj3PzaAqYI7cg6vP25bYF26u0Wu4hVDy7otQbdNGj-vffRv677P4rSXQW6LOjgFmVG138Vby3BCMnj3ZTmJnaiKtINFqH2YPgw6O1iH3QDmyTeVP7KGBnIvcvxiwXPp1NLEtiQl7/s320/Salem+Church+Paint+and+Shutters.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Finally, some colour. The roof was painted black before the tiles were added and then several coats of black to even up the surface. The brick work got a couple coats of "Terra-Cotta" and the brick detail was picked out by varying the shade of the Terra Cotta with red, browns and buff. Then it was given a light drybrush with dark grey, buff and then just a little white to dust up the finish (tones down the red-orange of the brick) and to even it all up. Tacked on the shutters with some white glue and a few touch-ups (trying to remember all along that this was supposed to be a quick model!).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXYf_WJ5Kttah-lbcw67cWSrZTW4CSRmNXe5tIGQAcIi1c-MhXMSd_TtEOrjSyG25BC-_XZ3VgOJgGkPT1ARy6_Hni6Q1RfJl4lYd5aT_OH7Ns8LfIzGG129DlCuApzxVvCWM7LID66NPb/s1600/Salem+Church+Colour.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXYf_WJ5Kttah-lbcw67cWSrZTW4CSRmNXe5tIGQAcIi1c-MhXMSd_TtEOrjSyG25BC-_XZ3VgOJgGkPT1ARy6_Hni6Q1RfJl4lYd5aT_OH7Ns8LfIzGG129DlCuApzxVvCWM7LID66NPb/s320/Salem+Church+Colour.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkq4KiTrePe7WbK7JQJkaBwySg-681rN8kjuJP52wl4xy-1MBT94umK9YLHi2NwjzTyeXmB3sFNkpznPfAsZxcsfyAV2VFTRWwtuJsuRwYAW6PJFHQTM901MEkmcL1f1umk3LXEFtCoHxF/s1600/Salem+Church+Colour+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkq4KiTrePe7WbK7JQJkaBwySg-681rN8kjuJP52wl4xy-1MBT94umK9YLHi2NwjzTyeXmB3sFNkpznPfAsZxcsfyAV2VFTRWwtuJsuRwYAW6PJFHQTM901MEkmcL1f1umk3LXEFtCoHxF/s320/Salem+Church+Colour+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlawGSdcpcfPyPCvqBudovjyOvh4TgRkMGo81hlZp7Q7_9G8BetPKjkUnOdBdOlQ8O5zD2d_WPuow0qMj1GTKlMfIDbM_DoEjeHU59N5und6kMXqpnNAQoYnUf6UUOuon0xzpzk6AWp8lq/s1600/Salem+Church+B_W.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlawGSdcpcfPyPCvqBudovjyOvh4TgRkMGo81hlZp7Q7_9G8BetPKjkUnOdBdOlQ8O5zD2d_WPuow0qMj1GTKlMfIDbM_DoEjeHU59N5und6kMXqpnNAQoYnUf6UUOuon0xzpzk6AWp8lq/s320/Salem+Church+B_W.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The last step will be to add some mullions to the windows. I plan to draw them out with white pencil crayon on black or dark blue construction paper and tape them inside the window frames. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-1961027499081965002013-03-05T07:00:00.001-08:002013-03-05T07:00:10.779-08:00The General's Office Wagon<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
Here is the "finished" version:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYW8JCkvezC3pVYvXPp26tQWyEjrQ2OWZkGIv4_E8j2pN5uzfEhJuSuQuOL_C4kwjtMyJl_teHWHYsPteLSJyFyEEgd1h2aveMEdhPyr2AM5ybP_KzmfKGqxE8rTbZAda-iUnVz3ZtX2e/s1600/General's+Wagon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" jsa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYW8JCkvezC3pVYvXPp26tQWyEjrQ2OWZkGIv4_E8j2pN5uzfEhJuSuQuOL_C4kwjtMyJl_teHWHYsPteLSJyFyEEgd1h2aveMEdhPyr2AM5ybP_KzmfKGqxE8rTbZAda-iUnVz3ZtX2e/s320/General's+Wagon.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Just some highlights on the tilt and the curtains. I printed up some period maps and Harper's Weekly newspaper pages from some web images for the maps and office debris. The seated officer and chairs are from Old Glory's Union camp pack.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM0Bxh-0WrXICUT1BGO8sKlHa1iJlm9qv_facQd2ks5h2QTNpnOQmb5cDZVACT_HinZBz1cTv3-Y15hf01-4VoxBUx9ruU6WORI8geiAHH2drs6_kkJH6OYc4x032yAVquF1sFkInrdrz4/s1600/General's+Wagon+Front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" jsa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM0Bxh-0WrXICUT1BGO8sKlHa1iJlm9qv_facQd2ks5h2QTNpnOQmb5cDZVACT_HinZBz1cTv3-Y15hf01-4VoxBUx9ruU6WORI8geiAHH2drs6_kkJH6OYc4x032yAVquF1sFkInrdrz4/s320/General's+Wagon+Front.JPG" width="229" /></a></div>
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There is a sheltered inner office at the front of the wagon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH9QT_4yuECwkIZgYoHH9M1g2zbXAE2Xz2Gh6869vuTGpqCAK8eGmUOT1WO3kZr08CGa2xkfXb6nnTawdFP4uhLK9w9h4LzHv_dA6SS7t0OqpmTMu7gds-tF-ONNSdYEfawlTnehRJkfPF/s1600/General's+Wagon+Rear.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" jsa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH9QT_4yuECwkIZgYoHH9M1g2zbXAE2Xz2Gh6869vuTGpqCAK8eGmUOT1WO3kZr08CGa2xkfXb6nnTawdFP4uhLK9w9h4LzHv_dA6SS7t0OqpmTMu7gds-tF-ONNSdYEfawlTnehRJkfPF/s320/General's+Wagon+Rear.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And a bed in the wallpapered chamber in the rear. I may add some details to the interior and will add some further ground cover when my other projects are completed. That way I can "even-out" the textures and materials of the ground cover. One idea I am toying with is to hang a corps flag off the backside of the wagon. This side is not shown here, but it is pretty 'blank'. Here is a flag sculpted out of green stuff. We'll see if my eyesight holds and my hand is steady enough to do a corp symbol and number!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixsj1HXMsdqIOQ1mYgCKvsLDQ-76OjABGvu_oSZGZ2FnGBm-mxW1ns51rBEGvz-LOq08wDA0vH06xj2vl2PLbtEA-ph0vPV6sD2_dnMmxgh_FkT3xF8DK1eqzqXfiJfIr4vnUAMzqFRRpK/s1600/Corps+Flag.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" jsa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixsj1HXMsdqIOQ1mYgCKvsLDQ-76OjABGvu_oSZGZ2FnGBm-mxW1ns51rBEGvz-LOq08wDA0vH06xj2vl2PLbtEA-ph0vPV6sD2_dnMmxgh_FkT3xF8DK1eqzqXfiJfIr4vnUAMzqFRRpK/s320/Corps+Flag.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-28645309520175868112013-02-25T06:00:00.000-08:002013-04-02T05:36:12.289-07:00Update and the HBG!Here's an update on the Winnie. Basic colours are done. Needs highlighting and details, then the base and some further detailing. (Chairs, maps, etc.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVLQ2lcx_LUQuRyiqWlCm9r49_IYnkoIDJevdElhc8fg38sUscr1LEBGGdJpJB1JKO3B7hrrHCPfYgQsUcVwCLsUZ9ly2O_bQD97XvXiH15VHEGZxZHM9u92EPqC4-SI6lQRp8k5nVVH4y/s1600/Basic+Colours.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gsa="true" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVLQ2lcx_LUQuRyiqWlCm9r49_IYnkoIDJevdElhc8fg38sUscr1LEBGGdJpJB1JKO3B7hrrHCPfYgQsUcVwCLsUZ9ly2O_bQD97XvXiH15VHEGZxZHM9u92EPqC4-SI6lQRp8k5nVVH4y/s320/Basic+Colours.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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When building, I usually try to use strip or sheet stock that closely matches the size of what I am attempting to recreate. Since I work small, I generally do not have thick stock on hand. Luckily the Evergreen sheet laminates well. Make sure the surfaces you are gluing are flat and free of debris. Sand or file the surface to get a smooth flat area to glue. What you don't want is areas de-laminating or showing cracks when they are cut to final shape. Using Testors solvent liberally coat both sutfaces and press tight together. The solvent dissolves the surface of the plastic and if you do this just right, the seams are near impossible to tell. </div>
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Here, a few parts blocked out in multiple sheets of suitably thick plastic. They will be an axle support, the main trail and cheek pieces for a large Parrot gun.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTl9x0PsBxLHFB7C_cERon394lI9vT0pnbE2-VFZwYSNc3CFKbapI3Smhw74tnGR9tB_82ro3OeJxnR3VvF4C2zj7kkBbkFfUMWAvXRwK4l4sCnnGp56QpgP8353TAa0BHR4WBbpxacMo/s1600/Building+Blanks.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gsa="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTl9x0PsBxLHFB7C_cERon394lI9vT0pnbE2-VFZwYSNc3CFKbapI3Smhw74tnGR9tB_82ro3OeJxnR3VvF4C2zj7kkBbkFfUMWAvXRwK4l4sCnnGp56QpgP8353TAa0BHR4WBbpxacMo/s320/Building+Blanks.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And speaking of large guns, here is the start of an HBG (Honking Big Gun!). This blank was carved and spun fron a length of dowell. Sometimes the handle of a paint brush will give a perfect shape for a big gun.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1GVzRHXnOgc7EJJF2ZEh6V9958xOfhq8Y0oNiGEdwfe3Z0ipmqe6OimsURIq1gac0ZAVTisxhsnSJnkXch_c2wFIr3QuY3mL7g2uqJOtQrCaxM6IQlFEN8WlejrXZ2XPH_QfbZdK0heOK/s1600/HBG+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gsa="true" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1GVzRHXnOgc7EJJF2ZEh6V9958xOfhq8Y0oNiGEdwfe3Z0ipmqe6OimsURIq1gac0ZAVTisxhsnSJnkXch_c2wFIr3QuY3mL7g2uqJOtQrCaxM6IQlFEN8WlejrXZ2XPH_QfbZdK0heOK/s320/HBG+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is a Rodman, maybe 10 plus inches. These guns had a distinctive slotted breach, used for elevation. Here is a styrene "blank" which will be sanded and filed to finished shape. The slots are set in with 40 by 60 thou strip. We'll see how the nicely formed slots withstand the final shaping!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguad8PspyMrmGpjWD7C8mHlFE-8VrO-TT8_z2GZafLAESAzH2QY75KWKrUFbQHoSQP3P8oNmnq8y65z9F-uVtBEiVnQUmpK2qFVUlMtm42TH0vWThjSyHR9rw61TJWEbE908wGEjoEfnHQ/s1600/Cascabel+Blank.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gsa="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguad8PspyMrmGpjWD7C8mHlFE-8VrO-TT8_z2GZafLAESAzH2QY75KWKrUFbQHoSQP3P8oNmnq8y65z9F-uVtBEiVnQUmpK2qFVUlMtm42TH0vWThjSyHR9rw61TJWEbE908wGEjoEfnHQ/s320/Cascabel+Blank.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-35702695821364771072013-02-17T11:27:00.002-08:002013-02-17T16:41:32.796-08:00A Sling CartGoogle "sling cart" and you will come up with something like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8goBxvMuYju23p01NlExYVFJJpXp2pFX19iMd03obn1uYtTZbXKCCIaBgdYLKsfwv7YP3gwdmM-XPjLTQ3yeAuIh76OVPEQkm7uc2Zzg8gJQ3vlYdkf8xtRjwGL0w98mWzEKedFJxlnNY/s1600/Gun+Sling.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8goBxvMuYju23p01NlExYVFJJpXp2pFX19iMd03obn1uYtTZbXKCCIaBgdYLKsfwv7YP3gwdmM-XPjLTQ3yeAuIh76OVPEQkm7uc2Zzg8gJQ3vlYdkf8xtRjwGL0w98mWzEKedFJxlnNY/s320/Gun+Sling.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div>
These were used to move large fortress guns. Note a fairly standard artillery limber to lead (left). The central portion is a large wheel with (at my count) 24 spokes. Note how the wheel is "dished' to both sides, and how the spoke spacing does not seem equal. It looks to me like the inner set of spokes is 16 evenly spaced spokes. The outer assembly, looks to be only 8, for a total of 24 spokes. The trailing unit is a single sided 16 spoke wheel. So, if I can figure out how to cast this thing, I could cast up 4 identical wheels, and two outer bits to make the central unit. Based on drawings I have seen, the central unit appears to be some kind of 'bottle-jack' while the trailing unit is a central screw and a handle to crank up or down. There is also an etching that shows a gun sling being towed by a hundred or so men. These guns were heavy and you didn't always have horses or mules available...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbd_me2bN5gWLzNjuwKo10-invpOSeFkXWsnThsnkkQL-3sbPdRQyOQq7CLxNaKlbmHr9lWFHQb1SLUs3dE5GyOGy3ddIWqqxbZIPBc0X1Q56mKxaXGEnyicZAE1r-cRM8_NRrps6nHxiK/s1600/Placing+Spokes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbd_me2bN5gWLzNjuwKo10-invpOSeFkXWsnThsnkkQL-3sbPdRQyOQq7CLxNaKlbmHr9lWFHQb1SLUs3dE5GyOGy3ddIWqqxbZIPBc0X1Q56mKxaXGEnyicZAE1r-cRM8_NRrps6nHxiK/s320/Placing+Spokes.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div>
This shows a plastic ring taped down onto my building jig. The central hub has a spacer, a ring to set the spokes on and an outer spacer to form the hub. The jig is marked for 8 equally spaced spokes. Individual spokes, in this case .040 by .060 Evergreen strtip, are cut and fitted. A small bit of .040 sheet raises the outer end of the spoke to center on the outer rim. The spokes angle upwards slightly as they merge at the hub. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgXF9A5fBoS32VuG1tmf7dl-GAbN4DkgvpNCwzO_mY-sx7Kg_QJBv1zGLswicOzsGlBnnf1B93C3UXs2z8NLBMR6EN_wl3x2lbGtK6D5mWK5hQcuWgCzUb8vTr6VMEbm5-OcDSMHXzPJHL/s1600/16+Spokes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgXF9A5fBoS32VuG1tmf7dl-GAbN4DkgvpNCwzO_mY-sx7Kg_QJBv1zGLswicOzsGlBnnf1B93C3UXs2z8NLBMR6EN_wl3x2lbGtK6D5mWK5hQcuWgCzUb8vTr6VMEbm5-OcDSMHXzPJHL/s320/16+Spokes.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div>
This shows 16 spokes for the inner and standard wheel. The spokes were glued in place at the rim and the hub with Testor's liquid solvent. Note the drill bit used as an axle for temporary allignment. It has a couple of turns of masking tape on it. This allows a bit of downward pressure to be put onto the hub. If the spokes are a little tight, the hub tends to lift off the building board. The tape on the drill allows you to press it back into position. <br />
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However, before I started the 16 spoke wheel, I made a "spider' of a section of the hub and only 8 spokes. The 8 spokes were glued only at the hub and carefully removed as an assembly when the glue dried. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCOu7GAv_iiqJyeYE8JSFf5C_00GPU7En52Im98GX2EwAtgeyMV_MuMgCok-LcAxod4MadDvVLDpHooiWUnWtgSstquwxd0RVVXhFzY5C4KQStTmuPql61og8oYvkn_BS4Fxkn6X9XJCkA/s1600/24+Spokes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCOu7GAv_iiqJyeYE8JSFf5C_00GPU7En52Im98GX2EwAtgeyMV_MuMgCok-LcAxod4MadDvVLDpHooiWUnWtgSstquwxd0RVVXhFzY5C4KQStTmuPql61og8oYvkn_BS4Fxkn6X9XJCkA/s320/24+Spokes.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div>
This shows a trial assembly of the 24 spoke wheeel. Note the outer disk on the hub. This strengthens the spokes, and a bit of green stuff will fill in the gaps at the hub around each spoke. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt3oof_dwVSsiBqpYhSKRtJ27tRyL-EedhKMErnDNqwKE30tFpuMYy7whP3mDYV6dcjoqWF0T7UIjIysgA93gg71QkKuMoG9OwqrkOEyRx3MnY51TCVlafebS5TToa0JnSvp4oto_Hl1P0/s1600/Double+Dish.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt3oof_dwVSsiBqpYhSKRtJ27tRyL-EedhKMErnDNqwKE30tFpuMYy7whP3mDYV6dcjoqWF0T7UIjIysgA93gg71QkKuMoG9OwqrkOEyRx3MnY51TCVlafebS5TToa0JnSvp4oto_Hl1P0/s320/Double+Dish.JPG" uea="true" width="229" /></a></div>
See how the wheel is "dished" on the inner and outer surface. I originally thought the spokes were a little thin, but I think the wheel matches the spirit of the picture if not the precise dimensions. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGQKtEVKdF6b8sxfwDq3LkkVOATSKrFQxzpPcSvJoq_5TNTG9nFtul-4eVtnGS_IUJ3JGLh-r1zvqm2YDQ641OBZhxstz2rftI3UpHPb1r7Kih-Xa1f91KjTvIVXmVFYNzq5uG655RRIDK/s1600/Showing+Size.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGQKtEVKdF6b8sxfwDq3LkkVOATSKrFQxzpPcSvJoq_5TNTG9nFtul-4eVtnGS_IUJ3JGLh-r1zvqm2YDQ641OBZhxstz2rftI3UpHPb1r7Kih-Xa1f91KjTvIVXmVFYNzq5uG655RRIDK/s320/Showing+Size.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div>
So here is a 'master' for the wheels with the Redoubt VMI cadet for scale. This figure is a large 28, so the wheel will look even bigger next to my 'standard' Old Glory 28s. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-48901251843319127672013-02-11T13:07:00.001-08:002013-02-11T13:08:54.096-08:00The Winnebago Pt2Took a little break this week as my son and his wife had a new baby!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9oWwxEM3gol_w0OnHXR5o7hAhUhVECzkrRHIpYvCZpE9cVx11rgKpdD-3msplZNIm_yAtC9Lpk_F4jdCbzODpXuuPc4eZ38SXCAk0jnRzLPXoTDuPGnWrNK25KK9gx6z_kVjYLMlAzMnr/s1600/DSCF3718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9oWwxEM3gol_w0OnHXR5o7hAhUhVECzkrRHIpYvCZpE9cVx11rgKpdD-3msplZNIm_yAtC9Lpk_F4jdCbzODpXuuPc4eZ38SXCAk0jnRzLPXoTDuPGnWrNK25KK9gx6z_kVjYLMlAzMnr/s320/DSCF3718.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everleigh Iris, scratchbuilt, full scale...7lbs, 5ozs. <br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">So I finished off the construction of General's wagon. Primer is drying as I type and it is ready for paint. Shown here on the workbench with an Old Glory 28mm Union officer and chair. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnchgbbZSCUroN2jlutCkibNbL_H2KllVdOna0EDdvf1NuORvrP2CKcjxz9uONhquXh64Ocjnlc3C6gUvU2mVyXGD9pwsU2nfNahbTESzRzQVW8BtMb_ZVD45gK7cacsR-kv5YUYGbqmwl/s1600/On+the+workbench.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnchgbbZSCUroN2jlutCkibNbL_H2KllVdOna0EDdvf1NuORvrP2CKcjxz9uONhquXh64Ocjnlc3C6gUvU2mVyXGD9pwsU2nfNahbTESzRzQVW8BtMb_ZVD45gK7cacsR-kv5YUYGbqmwl/s320/On+the+workbench.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Lots of teeny bits for the mail slots. They are not perfect, but some dressing up with maps and such will give the impression of a busy office space. I hope to add a few details, maybe a lantern or a coat rack in the bed area. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi65tv1aDFylnXv2ijtUDRXT4BRKHXvooF2pPo9Eqf32ne_nKwzdK8XDumMqwsFVQY-TbhEik6L7BxXoYjqCpfCMcN7XaELO-0hZOsF7ooNe8PX00JKeTPShuJ80yt5Ai_45H37ieOzCdIU/s1600/Ready+for+paint+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi65tv1aDFylnXv2ijtUDRXT4BRKHXvooF2pPo9Eqf32ne_nKwzdK8XDumMqwsFVQY-TbhEik6L7BxXoYjqCpfCMcN7XaELO-0hZOsF7ooNe8PX00JKeTPShuJ80yt5Ai_45H37ieOzCdIU/s320/Ready+for+paint+1.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqo5Qwy2N9urPMREyFk-ULWay80-a6aHVMUMfKhseKvbAzhkXz2gMeOf4mqFjYnq2jkeJohf4PhRXKMtJxt_qONuvPrIF18X3xkIa6HS-JG3-SkuNhzIiS71s_pY8TmxeWgZ80QkYQ0_uv/s1600/Ready+for+paint+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqo5Qwy2N9urPMREyFk-ULWay80-a6aHVMUMfKhseKvbAzhkXz2gMeOf4mqFjYnq2jkeJohf4PhRXKMtJxt_qONuvPrIF18X3xkIa6HS-JG3-SkuNhzIiS71s_pY8TmxeWgZ80QkYQ0_uv/s320/Ready+for+paint+2.JPG" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14466046490260644377noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3939243628400021713.post-41292075737573758182013-02-02T14:13:00.000-08:002013-02-02T15:42:21.357-08:00A Civil War Winnebago?The next project on the list is a general's office wagon. Apparently Union General George Thomas had an office wagon, but internet resources for this are rather slim. I did find one inspirational image: <br />
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<a href="http://travelphotobase.com/v/USVA/VASA219.HTM">http://travelphotobase.com/v/USVA/VASA219.HTM</a><br />
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So as I planned how to build one in minature, I first decided I would need to build an awning over the desk area (in case it rains). Then had to decide what was going on inside the wagon?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_-r92-R_ZDYPegRAXgiKIe_HMwiOQcVJzOhZnQ1WoEZmJSoJ__Rns7HayTW-LXwpKeGc3hmTnGSbrVXAATvAARIjiTuBVE0BAtgKVFdVgJt6j9_u46PW5Gi5kCZxfmpzmfuuI6BJ48dWV/s1600/Winnebago+Parts.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ea="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_-r92-R_ZDYPegRAXgiKIe_HMwiOQcVJzOhZnQ1WoEZmJSoJ__Rns7HayTW-LXwpKeGc3hmTnGSbrVXAATvAARIjiTuBVE0BAtgKVFdVgJt6j9_u46PW5Gi5kCZxfmpzmfuuI6BJ48dWV/s320/Winnebago+Parts.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Obviously, if I were a general, I'd have a place to ride and do some work, so a small desk and chair at the front of the wagon in a wood paneled office. And why not a proper bed in the back of the wagon?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhniFm7bnGtxlVMco1kYZ9JrRk50skfw-HOk1jhC_ZAKe0EMFI6T4zUrqKmO1dQ_zW91rkhMRzv50J6Jo24ePyrv4tBFXgWTzIPZwq81XXUeIA_7djAhViewdDsy6doUogA3W_iJ_gxdjeX/s1600/Wagon+body.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ea="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhniFm7bnGtxlVMco1kYZ9JrRk50skfw-HOk1jhC_ZAKe0EMFI6T4zUrqKmO1dQ_zW91rkhMRzv50J6Jo24ePyrv4tBFXgWTzIPZwq81XXUeIA_7djAhViewdDsy6doUogA3W_iJ_gxdjeX/s320/Wagon+body.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhja8_kkcA3nIzdG7BCEGH_nUksCZ1T7utUUp8rAx2W3kwVjXMnioxOU0Rta0Ahy72gzw48I7xUcgseDAkefx_OJ6Qk7rjfGJKhfK59507tOMta7SzHNR2c37mSvUQoNupY5aMijPTu9IKn/s1600/Trial+fit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ea="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhja8_kkcA3nIzdG7BCEGH_nUksCZ1T7utUUp8rAx2W3kwVjXMnioxOU0Rta0Ahy72gzw48I7xUcgseDAkefx_OJ6Qk7rjfGJKhfK59507tOMta7SzHNR2c37mSvUQoNupY5aMijPTu9IKn/s320/Trial+fit.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Of course I would have a portrait of my dear wife and maybe some nice wall paper on the wall?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsZQUvZpVyDX46rsMAv-PPdT-PPfncxvBrVRN-M6p4EHEMPnN6JnC0i1JPrtbZPSPd7rmBAfAPBnt9acBcoBSgHcciWmW9iU2hG7nMv0XxEQ344RaTDNvniouk9ndthr6xGICJLcGBVYk6/s1600/Wallpaper.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ea="true" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsZQUvZpVyDX46rsMAv-PPdT-PPfncxvBrVRN-M6p4EHEMPnN6JnC0i1JPrtbZPSPd7rmBAfAPBnt9acBcoBSgHcciWmW9iU2hG7nMv0XxEQ344RaTDNvniouk9ndthr6xGICJLcGBVYk6/s320/Wallpaper.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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So some quick Google searches for images and a quick visit to Photoshop.</div>
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Lots of work to do yet. Needs bedding and curtains (like the ambulance) A couple of chairs--I have some of the Old Glory seated officers on chairs. An awning over the external desk. And how to build all those little mail slots on the outer office?</div>
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